Berliner Tageszeitung - Paris Fashion Week kicks off with big designer debuts expected

The first day of the bi-annual Paris shows will spotlight up-and-coming designers, including France's Victor Weinsanto, Japanese label CFCL and New York's Vaquera.

Over the next eight days, more than 100 fashion houses will unveil their Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collections, hoping to rally sales in what is an increasingly difficult global luxury market.

Among the most anticipated moments will be Sarah Burton's debut at Givenchy on Friday, with the French label given a boost Sunday night by Hollywood star Timothee Chalamet who wore a yellow Givenchy suit at the Academy Awards.

Burton, a 51-year-old Briton who made her name as creative director at Alexander McQueen, was appointed to Givenchy in September.

"Givenchy has a very beautiful history," she told Vogue in a profile last month. "It appeals to me because it's a small house, and it's in Paris."

Burton is one of a number of recent changes at major brands, with Belgian veteran Dries Van Noten stepping down from his eponymous label last year and handing the reins to fellow countryman Julian Klausner, 33.

Klausner's first collection on Wednesday will be closely scrutinised.

The French Haute Couture and Fashion Federation has also pulled off a feat by attracting Tom Ford, a mainstay of New York Fashion Week, to Paris for the first time.

Chief designer Haider Ackermann, in the top job at Tom Ford since September and also tasked with leading a brand defined by its founder, will be making his catwalk debut.

- French heavyweights -

French luxury heavyweights Louis Vuitton, Dior, Saint Laurent and Chanel will produce the biggest budget this week, with their front row seats fought over by celebrities and influencers.

Dior's show on Tuesday could be the last from head designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, according to persistent rumours and press reports that she is on the way out.

Northern Irish stylist Jonathan Anderson, who is currently at the helm of Spanish label Loewe, is tipped as her potential replacement.

Saint Laurent, whose show will be the last of Fashion Week next Tuesday, March 11, dressed Oscar winner Zoe Saldana as she picked up the best supporting actress award on Sunday night in Hollywood.

Chanel will also present its latest collection on the final day.

It has been prepared by its in-house creative studio rather than recently appointed artistic director Matthieu Blazy, who will present his first collection in September.

- Slowdown -

The luxury industry as a whole has seen profits fall and sales slow.

Paris-based LVMH, Europe's largest company by market value, reported a 17-percent fall in annual net profit in 2024 which it attributed to the end of the luxury-buying "euphoria" following the global Covid 19 pandemic.

Analysts see weakness in the key luxury market of China, reduced appetite for high-priced goods, and widespread economic uncertainty as other reasons for the decline.

Consultants Bain & Company estimated that only about a third of the world's luxury brands experienced growth in 2024.

"Global luxury consumers, grappling with macroeconomic uncertainty and continued price elevation by brands, cut back slightly on discretionary items," said Bain in a January report.

Fellow French giant Kering reported a 62 percent drop in annual profit last year 2024, largely due to struggles at its flagship Gucci brand.

Last month, it ousted creative director Sabato De Sarno, who presided over a sharp fall in sales.

Elsewhere on Monday, the Financial Times reported that Prada had emerged as the frontrunner to buy fellow Italian label Versace from Capri Holdings for about 1.5 billion euros ($1.6 billion).

The takeover would combine two of Italy's best-known luxury fashion brands.

A. Williams--BTZ