Berliner Tageszeitung - Highlights from Paris Women's Fashion Week

- Zomer flips the script -

For their fourth collection --the third presented in Paris --the creative duo behind Paris-based Zomer delivered a show in rewind mode at the Palais de Tokyo art space.

The show opened models mimicking the typical finale of a runway show, then one by one they strutted down the catwalk wearing dresses, jackets, coats, and shirts — all worn back to front.

At the end of the show, designers Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha appeared with their backs to the audience to take their bow.

Previously, the Dutch pair have invited two young children, then two elderly men, and later two women to take a final bow in their place.

- XXL bra at Vaquera -

One of the standout pieces from Vaquera’s latest collection was a giant bra, transformed into a dress, a skirt, or a top.

"Lingerie has always been a really big part of our brand, and that was actually a bra that we'd done a few seasons ago that didn't really get a proper moment," explained New York-based designer Bryn Taubensee alongside creative partner Patric DiCaprio.

"We have it in five different, or five different looks, three different ways for the show. It could be like a dress, a skirt, or a top."

Staying true to their love for excess, the duo also showcased an oversized pearl necklace.

- Confetti at Courreges -

"It’s going to be a season full of confetti," promised Courreges's Nicolas di Felice.

And he delivered. Inspired by tiny paper rectangles, the Belgian designer built his latest collection around this concept, crafting dresses that seemed to be made from a single strip of rectangular fabric.

Under the sunlit glass roof of the Carreau du Temple in the Marais district, models walked through a swirling storm of red, pink, blue, and silver confetti, kept afloat by air blowers.

The result: a magical, festive atmosphere, amplified by a powerful soundtrack.

- Music in the skin at Hodakova -

A violin on the head, a drum at the waist, and a cello worn as a dress... Swedish designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson, a devoted advocate of upcycling, repurposed musical instruments for her debut show on Paris Fashion Week’s official calendar.

The collection highlighted "how different moods can be captured through musical energy," the designer told reporters, revealing that she played the violin as a child.

- Stella McCartney at the office -

Under the watchful eyes of French first lady Brigitte Macron, Stella McCartney presented her collection in an office space in northern Paris, with models weaving between desks, computers, and photocopiers.

The looks ranged from gray power suits with oversized shoulder pads to shimmering, sheer bodysuits paired with thigh-high glitter boots and oversized sunglasses.

There were also ultra-short, delicate pink dresses.

Before the show, dancers moved among the seated guests.

The finale featured a brief pole-dance performance set to a disco beat.

- Sweet treats at Mame Kurogouchi -

Designer Mame Kurogouchi drew inspiration from various traditional Japanese crafts, such as lacquer—used both for furniture decoration and protection—as well as food.

Mochis, the round, sweet rice-based desserts, served as the starting point for thick, long coats featuring soft, oval-shaped padded pockets.

"It comes from the beautiful shape of mochis. I eat them almost every day," she told AFP.

K. Berger--BTZ