Berliner Tageszeitung - Men's Fashion Week in Paris: what to watch

- Stability and sales -

Over six days and across 36 runway shows and 30 presentations, 66 houses are set to unveil their wardrobes for the next Fall/Winter season.

After a 2025 marked by sweeping changes in some labels' top positions, this season will be more stable, with many newly appointed designers bedding into their new jobs and looking to showcase their vision.

In October, what industry experts dubbed the "Fashion Week of the century" saw the debut of numerous new directors, including Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Jonathan Anderson for Dior womenswear.

Uncertain economic conditions will continue to weigh on the minds of many labels following several years of weak sales, notably in China.

"We're in the midst of an economic crisis and that has repercussions on creation," according to Marie Ottavi, fashion journalist at France's Liberation newspaper, who predicted "very pragmatic collections" to meet "the imperative of selling".

For several seasons now, "it has been less about creativity and more about predictability", agreed Franck Nauerz, head of menswear at Paris fashion stores Le Bon Marche and La Samaritaine.

- Hermes finale -

On Saturday evening, French designer Veronique Nichanian will present her final collection for Hermes, after 37 years at the helm of the men's line.

The 71-year-old Parisian -- one of few women designing in menswear -- announced her departure in October.

She will leave behind a brand in tremendous financial shape with an image of timeless, refined masculinity that she has helped shape.

Her successor has already been announced: London designer Grace Wales Bonner, who will take up the hotseat in her mid 30s.

Wales Bonner, who is of English and Jamaican heritage, founded her own label and is known for including African influences including handcrafted fabrics or jewellery in her work.

She will unveil her first collection in January 2027.

- Jonathan Anderson -

On Wednesday afternoon, Dior will unveil the second menswear collection by Jonathan Anderson, one of the most anticipated events of this Fashion Week.

His debut show of summer menswear in June last year won widespread praise, but his women's collection in October elicited a more ambivalent reception.

The 41-year-old Northern Irish designer is considered one of the leading talents of his generation, but now needs to convince and cement the new identity he's sketching out for Dior Homme.

"There's a lot of anticipation," noted Alice Feillard, men's buying director at Paris department store Galeries Lafayette.

- One to watch -

A rising figure in French fashion, designer Jeanne Friot will stage her first show on the official calendar after two years of presentations.

Known for her inclusive, socially engaged fashion, Friot will kick off fashion week on Tuesday at 3 pm (1400 GMT), ahead of Pharrell Williams's highly anticipated Louis Vuitton show in the evening.

Among the newcomers, Italian designer Luca Magliano will also make his runway debut after winning the Karl Lagerfeld Prize in 2023, while ERL, KML, Sonia Carrasco, and Ssstein join the calendar for the first time in the "presentation" category.

- Absences -

Spanish brand Loewe, expected to stage its first menswear show under the guidance of US designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, will present a unisex collection during Women's Fashion Week in March.

Saint Laurent, which returned to the official men's calendar in June, has opted out again.

These absences allow "other, more independent brands - smaller but well-established -- to gain greater visibility on the calendar", Feillard pointed out, citing French labels Lemaire and AMI as well as US designer Rick Owens.

Pillars of the calendar, Japanese houses Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto will also be present, along with French labels 3.Paradis and Egonlab.

Much-hyped French designer Simon Jacquemus will close out the week with a show at the Picasso Museum that is expected to draw numerous celebrities.

F. Schulze--BTZ