Berliner Tageszeitung - Between the office and nature for Prada's winter menswear

The highlight of the third day of Milan's Men's Fashion Week, in which minimalist elegance is embellished with a touch of colour, took place at the Prada Foundation on a glass floor revealing an autumnal landscape dotted with yellow leaves while guests sat on office chairs.

Dour grey, camel or black work suits are brightened up with little sparkles of fantasy, such as beany hats in purple, bright red and apple green, or flashy sandals.

Slim monochrome ties also make a comeback with Prada.

It's the theme of "renewal and change, like nature (and) natural rhythms", that has inspired the 2023/24 autumn-winter collection, said Raf Simons, Miuccia Prada's creative co-director.

"The office and nature, inside and outside, the instinctive change of people who move from one sphere to the other" are reflected in the clothing, he added.

The Prada man's physique is slim and refined, the tight shirts are tucked into the trousers, the whole look accentuated by bold, wide belts.

The collection focuses on traditional chic, with broad-shouldered tweed or leather jackets, turtleneck sweaters and soft knit cardigans.

Matching shirts and straight-cut trousers in black, grey and pale pink lie under puffy bomber jackets and winter parkas.

There are also loose double-breasted gold coats.

On Saturday, it was the turn of Giorgio Armani to unveil his Emporio line where adventure and daring were the key themes in a ready-to-wear collection aimed at a young, trendy clientele.

Fashionistas were submerged in the world of the sailor as models lit by a lighthouse paraded to the backdrop of the sounds of lapping waves.

"I've never hidden my love of the sea, the symbol of freedom and adventure," said Giorgio Armani, 89.

"This year I thought about Atlantic crossings and of the boats that crossed it."

It is a collection adorned by soft and fluid materials with loose trousers, long leather coats and jackets with broad shoulders, but also sailor caps, overalls and oversized rubber shirts.

There was a similar marine theme for the lady's wear, with long embroidered coats over matching mini-shorts and tops, completed with a pair of boots.

F. Burkhard--BTZ